We started by walking past a naval training centre then went back to the biggest island and walked right down to the seaward-facing fortifications started by the Swedes and which the British shelled during the Crimean War. Without a doubt it was all superbly over-engineered with extravagant officers guest quarters, gardens and farms. Today it is a community of some 900 people with lots of craft studios and cafés along the track. It is clearly a weekend favourite destination for local families who came loaded with picnic cool boxes. It was also a tour from some if the cruise ships going round the Baltic and there were a surprising number of Japanese tourist groups.
We popped briefly into the island church which doubles as a lighthouse.
As we took the ferry back to the mainland the skies got increasingly black and lightening streaked from the skies all around the, city.
We went for coffee and chocolate cake at a pavement cafe, picked up picnic supplies and then, as the skies had cleared, walked round another area of the harbour where 5 ice-breakers were parked up ready to tackle the winter freeze.
Over the next 3 days we've a lot of rail and bus travel as we head north up the Gulf of Bothnia and into the Arctic Circle.


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